An impression of Jewish Vilna from the 1840s

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This appeared in the Jewish Chronicle July 15, 1861. This is Max Lilienthal's account of his first impression of Vilna, which he first visited in 1842. This isn't a particularly obscure account; it is reproduced in Philipson's  Max Lilienthal, American rabbi: life and writings. However, it is interesting because here we see a  carefully chronicled support for the Lithuanian tradition of both velvet and leather yarmulkes.